Philodendron Paraiso Verde

Philodendron Paraiso Verde is an extraordinary looking plant. You will probably want to buy this plant because of the molted patterns on the leaves. The long, beautiful leaves grows on rather small stems. A typical leaf can grow as big as 10-15 inches.

Because they come from tropical regions of America as well as the West Indies, they will do well in shady areas with bright indirect lighting. They can take in about one to two hours of morning sun but prolonged exposure to direct sunlight will burn the leaves. Depending on the type of look you are after, putting this plant near a brightly lit windows will get you beautiful molted leaves. Putting the plant in a medium to low light area will result in the plant most likely growing you dark green leaves. I would say regardless, both type of leaves looks great.

Every leaf will branch out and it can grow taller then 15 inches easily. If you like to grow it above one metre in height, it is best to give it some kind of support or moss pole. It will climb a tree happily if you put it next to one,

Let’s dive in to a little more details about caring for it.


SOIL

Similar to most philodendra, this plant does well in well-draining soil. It is also fine with typical potting mixes but make sure it is airy enough for the roots to breathe. There are nurseries that sell ready-to-use aroid mixes which will work just as well too. You can also use coconut husk chips, pine park, pumice stones, etc to mix in with your garden soil to create a more chunky substrate.

Based on experience, if you are thinking of keeping the plant indoors, it will be better to use a soil-less substrate. Stuff like coconut chip/husk/fibre/peat will decompose and break down over time as it comes into contact with water. This process can attract pests to nest on them which is rather undesirable especially in an indoor setting.

Therefore, for planting indoors, I would simply recommend to just mix 50% pumice with either 50% peat moss, vermiculite or vermicast or all together. Of course, you can also use chunky stuff such as leca balls or zeolite rocks in place of pumice. I will usually judge the percentage of the mix based on how well-drained I want the substrate to be and also the size of the pot I am using.


WATERING

Water the plant frequently but make sure not to overwater and/or flood the roots. Let the soil have enough time to dry before each session. Use the moisture meter if possible to gauge the best way to determine the amount of moisture in the soil. Alternatively, you can feel the texture of the soil with your fingers to make sure that the top level of the soil is dry. Only then you can water the plant again. If the soil gets water-clogged, the roots will suffocate and rot..

Do not let the soil dry out for too long. A couple of hours to perhaps a day at best (subject to the humidity) is probably how long the roots can stay dry before it starts showing dry edges on leaves. Try to keep a regular watering schedule.

Generally, I would wait for the soil to dry off between 4-7 days before I start watering my plants again. If the soil does not dry up in about a week, the risk of root rot increases.


LIGHT

Giving different amount of lighting to this plant determines the kind of leaves it will produce. If you put this plant in a low to medium light location, expect the new leaves to be of a darker green colour. This could probably be the plant producing more chlorophyll to absorb more available light. Put it under indirect bright light, and this plant will give you beautiful lighter molted green leaves.

Darker green leaf under medium
to lower lighting conditions.
Molted leaf pattern grown under
bright indirect light.


HUMIDITY

It should do well in places where humidity is around 60% and above.

You can always increase humidity indoors with the following:
i) Place and use a humidifier near the plant.
ii) Wrap a wet towel around the base of the pot to increase the humidity.
iii) Mist the plant lightly every morning


GROWTH RATE

The growth rate of this species depends largely on the conditions it is growing in. Generally, if you keep the plant happy with good lighting, a proper watering schedule and scheduled fertilizing, it can grow really quickly. A new leaf every 3-4 weeks is the norm.

TOXICITY

This species contains a harmful substance called calcium oxalate crystals. They are not to be ingested at any cost. If ingested, it can cause some servere illnesses. Therefore, keep the plant away from your pets.


PESTS

Pests like aphids, mealybugs, spider mites and scales can attack the plant. The best way to keep pests away is to keep the plant healthy. In any case, if the leaves were to be attacked by the above mentioned pests, one of the recommended methods will be to use neem oil as a periodic control to eliminate them. Spraying it down and wiping the leaves with diluted neem oil every few days will eliminate them from the foliage instantly. Follow up with watering the soil with diluted neem oil which will further clear up the pests and their eggs that are residing in the soil. Doing this can also send neem oil into the leaf’s vascular system and when the sucking pest feeds on them, it will be killed and thus, preventing an infestation of sorts. Watering with neem oil can be done every month as periodic prevention.


PROPAGATION

Like the other philodendrons, the best way to propagate these plants is by stem cuttings. It is best that you cut about 1-2 inches below a node where there is aerial roots. In this way, with the aerial roots, the cutting can root much faster in its new media.

Do remember to sanitize your cutting tool before making the cut to prevent bacterial infection for the cuttings.

If the cutting has aerial roots longer then 1-2 inches, you can either pot it straight into soil, spaghnum moss, leca, perlite, water, etc. Keep whatever media or substrate you use moist but do not make it overly wet. If you decide to grow it in water, once you notice additional 2-3 inches of root growth, you can pot it straight into soil.

Even though this plant is easy to propagate, it will take about 2-4 weeks for it to be well rooted and produce a new leaf. One thing to note is that a darker green leaf cutting will likely root and grow a new leaf faster then a molted green leaf cutting.

To propogate, cut about 1-2 inches
below a node with aerial roots.
Leaf cutting with node and aerial roots.

I hope this article provides you with good information about the Pariaso Verde. It was complied based on my experience from growing the plant. If you have any questions, please leave me a comment below.

Thank you for reading.

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